ICYMI, plastic surgery is having a moment. Deep plane facelifts, blepharoplasties, lipo—they’re all trending on TikTok and reels. While I respect the open dialogue surrounding plastic surgery and the push to make it more mainstream, it’s simply not for me at this point in my life. That said, a more snatched complexion is absolutely for me at this point in my life—hence my interest in noninvasive beauty treatments, specifically Ultherapy. Ultherapy is touted as an noninvasive alternative to a surgical facelift for its ability to tighten and lift the face and neck, but does it actually work? And are the results comparable to the kind you’d get after going under the knife? I reached out to a dermatologist and plastic surgeon to find out and then tried the treatment for myself. Keep reading for all the info plus my honest review of Ultherapy.
Jump to:
- What is Ultherapy?
- Does Ultherapy work?
- What is better than Ultherapy?
- What are the downsides to Ultherapy?
- My Ultherapy review:
- The bottom line:
- Meet the experts:
- Why trust Cosmopolitan?
What is Ultherapy?
Ultherapy is a noninvasive treatment (i.e., there’s no surgery, incisions, or anesthesia involved) that uses focused ultrasound energy to target the deep layers of the skin, the underlying connective tissue, and fat, explains dermatologist Heather Rogers, MD. “The ultrasound energy creates controlled thermal injuries at precise depths, which triggers a natural healing response, stimulating fibroblasts to produce new collagen and elastin.” And why do we care about collagen and elastin, you ask? “They’re the proteins that keep skin tight and firm, and unfortunately, our bodies slow down making them once we hit our late 20s,” says plastic surgeon Jennifer Levine, MD.
Does Ultherapy work?
Yes, Ultherapy works—it particularly works to smooth, tighten, and lift skin thanks to its ability to stimulate collagen and elastin. It can be used all over the face and neck to minimize lines and wrinkles, lift brows, reduce the look of jowls, tighten up loose skin under the chin, and define the jawline and cheekbones. If you’ve been wondering why celebs like Lindsay Lohan and Jennifer Lawrence skin are looking so good lately, it’s very likely because they’ve gotten Ultherapy (along with Botox, fillers, lasers, etc.)
What is better than Ultherapy?
Ultherapy is often referred to as a “nonsurgical facelift” on social media. And while the treatment can definitely provide subtle lifting and tightening, it’s by no means better than, or even comparable to, a traditional facelift. Sorry, but “the term nonsurgical lift is misleading,” says Dr. Rogers. “Ultherapy cannot replicate the results of a surgical facelift—none of the popular noninvasive technologies can,” she adds. That said, when compared to other noninvasive technologies that promise to lift and firm, Ultherapy is generally regarded as one of the better options. Here’s a quick breakdown of how Ultherapy stacks up to other popular lifting treatments—including Sofwave, Thermage, and Emface—courtesy of Dr. Rogers.
I also asked Dr. Rogers how celeb-fave Morpheus8 compares to Ultherapy. “Morpheus8 combines radiofrequency and microneedling to provide a mild tightening effect and improve skin tone and texture,” she says. “Its results are even more unpredictable than Ultherapy in my opinion—and it doesn’t tighten and lift as well as Ultherapy or Emface.” So, according to Dr. Rogers, Morpheus8 isn’t going make a major impact if your primary goal is tightening and lifting. But!! As someone who has done Morpheus8 twice now, I do think it’s excellent at smoothing and plumping and absolutely worth considering if you want your skin to just look better overall.
What are the downsides to Ultherapy?
Patients say the biggest downsides to Ultherapy are the pain and price. I’ll get more into my personal experience with Ultherapy below, but I can attest—it hurts. My skin was numbed using a topical cream for about 30 minutes pre-treatment, and it still felt like a combo of sharp needles and extreme heat as the device sent ultrasound waves through my skin. To take the edge off during a treatment, most providers will recommend a combo of topical anesthesia, oral pain medication, and/or ProNox.
Now for the price. Ultherapy is expensive. What you’ll pay varies based on provider and location, but in New York City, a full-face treatment will set you back anywhere from $4,000 to $7,000.
And, as is the case with all noninvasive cosmetic treatments, there’s always the risk of complications or the treatment simply not working. Complications are most common with Ultherapy if you’re going to an inexperienced provider or being treated with the wrong settings, says Dr. Rogers.
My Ultherapy review:
I have a naturally flat, heavy brow so whenever I get Botox, I ask my provider to inject my eye area so that my brows are slightly lifted and my eye area more awake. I love how it looks, but the effect only lasts for like two months (annoyingly, my body metabolizes neurotoxins quickly). So I decided to try an Ultherapy Brow lift with the new Ultherapy PRIME device instead. According to Dr. Levine (she did my Ultherapy Brow Lift, FYI), the treatment can help subtly lift your brows, just like BrowTox, but the effect lasts anywhere from one to two years if you take care of your skin. It sounded perfect for me.
Ahead of my treatment, there wasn’t anything to do to prep. As soon as I showed up to Dr. Levine’s office, one of her nurses cleaned my skin and then applied a topical numbing to the upper half of my face. Thirty minutes later, once I was nice and numb, Dr. Levine drew white marks on the areas of my face where I’d be getting the treatment—above my brows and the sides of my eyes. She explained to me that by tightening and firming the skin in these spots, my brows would be lifted and the quality of my skin improved.
Dr. Levine warned me that while quick, the treatment would be uncomfortable. Uncomfortable was an understatement—it was downright painful, but I survived. Dr. Levine moved the applicator around my eyes in two passes—the first felt like sharp needles, the second felt like hot zaps. In my beauty editor experience, it’s the painful treatments that actually make a difference, so I was willing to suffer for 15 minutes in the name of better brows. Now, if I were getting my whole face treated with Ultherapy (which usually ends up taking an hour) I would have absolutely taken up Dr. Levine on her ProNox and injectable numbing offer.
What was most remarkable to me though was how normal my skin looked when it was all over. After other noninvasive treatments I’ve tried, like Halo and Morpheus8, my face looked red, scabby, and discolored for up to a week afterward. I had to book those treatments with my social schedule in mind. It was the total opposite with Ultherapy. I was a little pink and blotchy around my eyes immediately post-treatment, but it subsided after an hour. Nothing I couldn’t cover up with a skin tint or tinted moisturizer. And the skin that was treated felt slightly tender for the next day or so but not at all hot or swollen. This is the epitome of a zero-downtime treatment. I left the appointment and everything regarding my face was business as usual.
Now for the results. Dr. Levine told me I’d notice an improvement in my skin quality and a slight lift in my brows around the two month mark (collagen doesn’t grow overnight), and she was right. Last week, about seven weeks after I got Ultherapy, I was sitting on the train checking my makeup when I noticed it: the tails of my brows were ever so elevated and I had more space under my eyebrows. The skin around my eyes also look firmer and thicker too. The change isn’t dramatic by any means, but it’s definitely noticeable to me at this point. And the good news is that Dr. Levine says that the results will gradually continue to improve for another month or so and then last for up to two years if you take care of your skin.
The bottom line:
Overall, Ultherapy is a great option for anyone who wants to correct mild to moderate brow drooping or has a desire for subtle lifting without surgery, says Dr. Rogers. And even though it’s pricey and painful, the fact that the results can last for years makes it worth considering, IMO.
Meet the experts:
- Heather Rogers, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Seattle. Dr. Rogers is the cofounder of Modern Dermatology and the CEO of Doctor Rogers Skin Care.
- Jennifer Levine, MD, is an award-winning facial plastic surgeon in New York City. She’s one of only a few surgeons who are double-board certified by the American Board of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery and the American Board of Otolaryngology-head and neck surgery, giving her a unique knowledge of the face and its underlying structures.
Why trust Cosmopolitan?
Lauren Balsamo is the beauty director at Cosmopolitan with a decade of experience researching, writing, and editing skincare stories that range from the best body washes for acne-prone skin to the best anti-aging serums. She regularly tests and analyzes new skincare products and treatments, while working with the industry’s top experts to assess new technologies and trends.
Lauren Balsamo
Deputy Beauty Director
Lauren Balsamo is deputy beauty director at Cosmopolitan, where she writes, edits, and produces all types of beauty content—from product reviews to personal essays and trend reports. She has covered beauty for nine years at Cosmopolitan and has contributed to Women’s Health and Seventeen magazines as well. Follow her on Instagram.